/negative-waterproofing Treating the wall from the dry side, for when the wet side cannot be reached.
Negative side means treating the face of the wall opposite the water. It is harder than treating the wet side, because the water pressure is pushing against the treatment rather than into it, and that is exactly why it has to be done properly rather than painted on.
Because it is not asked to do the job alone. Relieve the pressure with drainage at the footing first, and the negative side treatment only has to handle what is left. Used on its own against a wall under real pressure, it will fail, and any company telling you otherwise is selling you a coat of paint.
White chalky residue on block, a musty smell that never clears, cracks that keep growing, rust at the base of appliances, damp patches that darken a day or two after rain, and humidity you can feel. Any sign of water damage or mold is worth an inspection before it becomes structural.
Anywhere from three days to a week, depending on the scope of work and site conditions. You will get a specific timeline with your written scope rather than a guess over the phone.
Yes. Every system we install carries a lifetime labor warranty.
Interior work accepts that water is going to reach the wall, and gives it somewhere to go: a drain at the footing that carries it to a pump instead of onto your floor. Exterior work digs down along the outside of the wall and stops the water before it ever gets there. Interior costs less and is far less disruptive, and it is what most Lexington houses get. Exterior is the answer when the wall itself is the problem. Which one you need comes out of the inspection, not out of a phone call.
Call, or text a photo of the wall and we will tell you what we are looking at.